A "metate" is a stone slab, usually made of volcanic rock (since we have so many volcanos all over Mexico), in a rectangular shape, usually with legs and lower in front than in the back so the results of the grinding can be pushed into another vessel as it's being processed; this is a cousin of the "Molcajete" which is usually for salsas and more liquid preparations
while the "metate" is used to grind corn, chiles, nuts and even meats, giving you a lot of control and the right kind of texture for the chosen ingredients. The "molcajete" used a rounder stone for grinding, fitting into your palm easily while the "metate" uses a bar of volcanic stone to press, grind and push the food, up and down, into the desired consistency you need. It is very efficient but does require "elbow grease" to get things done and is seen in home and commercial uses all over Mexico to this day.
It is said the "mocajete" came after the "metate" as a sort of refinement to produce specific ingredients in the Aztec and Mayan cultures. A very "iconic" tool for millions of people and now you even see them as a serving dish in upscale restaurants. Also, being made from volcanic stone means that high temperatures pose no threat to these amazing tools, which is why they're being used to serve boiling hot entrees also called "molcajetes" where meat, vegetables and even cheeses are placed in the hot stone vessel and served, giving you hot and melted food in a very attractive plating style. Volcanic stone retains heat well so you can either cook the food or be sure food will remain hot throughout the meal. Pretty nice, huh?
We're all familiar with the mortar and pestle used by ancient Greeks and other people's throughout the ages, right? These are the same type of tools but adjusted to fit the local ingredients found and applied to the food being used. In Mexico, many foods are ground using these two, from grinding re-hydrated chilies for their use in salsas or even Mole, plus grinding the nuts and spices for the Mole as well (after toasting and sorting), to the corn needed to make tortillas (after soaking in lye), to making ground meats for recipes. What can you grind in a "metate"? Anything you can grind in a blender or food processor and since you don't need electricity, it's more than Green Energy.... it's people powered! If you've ever seen a Mexican woman using a "metate", then you know just how efficient and quickly this is done.
In Aztec civilization, once a girl knew how to handle a "metate" to produce tortillas, atole and masa, she was "of marrying age...." because she had the essential skills needed to sustain a home. All homes had a stationary "metate" in a prominent place within a home's kitchen and it was of such importance than when a female child was born, her umbilical cord was buried under the "metate" to signify her place within the family.
Just like some Mexican Salsas that come under the category of "Salsas Molcajeteadas" and are now considered "gourmet", due to the time and care needed to produce them, plus the rustic texture of their finished product, foods prepared with these tools gain from their being prepared in this manner with a special feel and taste to them that make them stand out. If you've been able to go to Mexico City, Guadalajara, Oaxaca, Puebla or any of the Colonial Cities in Mexico then you've seen restaurants that present their sauces in their "molcajetes" so customers can see they have been prepared in this manner. Or look in good restaurants where they serve their food in them to enjoy a special treat.
It's easy for anyone to obtain a "mocajete" or "metate" as they can be found in many stores, markets and even online now. If you decide to purchase them, be sure to prepare them before using for the first time, just like when you use a cast-iron pan, the seasoning part is important and simple instructions can be found easily online. As with any other tool, proper care and handling will give you a lifetime of use and pleasure, getting better with time.
I don't have a "metate" or "mocajete" now at home but it isn't because I wouldn't love to, but due to our gypsy lifestyle that these heavy tools wouldn't be practical for us to have, otherwise, you can bet I would have them in my kitchen again. Don't think it's a chore to use them either, once you get used to using them, you begin to see all the applications they can be used for and will use them more and more in your daily food preparation. And if you decide not to use them, they will make a lovely decoration to any home.
Here's a great way to use the "metate" and have an amazing meal:
Pacholes Estilo Zacatecas.- These are thin little steaks, usually made in a "metate" but I use to make them in my tortilla press or with a pastry roller between plastic sheets, then fried. The mixture with the chilies makes for a pleasing flavor that takes us back to Zacatecas.
2 Guajillo Chilies, de-veined, de-seeded and de-stemmed
2 Ancho Chilies, de-veined, de-seeded and de-stemmed (or just use 4 Guajillos)
1/2 medium onion, sliced
2 garlic cloves, peeled
1 tbsp cumin (seeds or ground your choice and to taste)
2-3 cloves (whol
e or ground)
salt and pepper to taste
2-3 tbsp beans, refried and cooled (Peruano beans are best but Pinto will do)
1/2 lb ground beef
1/2 lb ground pork
oil for frying
Clean the chilies, open them and toast them lightly (if using whole spices you can toast them here at the same time) in a dry pan so the soften some. Place in a pan with hot water and allow them to soak for at least 1 hour to completely soften so they will be able to be ground up.
Place the chilies (reserve some of the soaking water for grinding if you need), garlic, onion, spices and grind well in a blender. You can add some of the soaking water, but this should be a thick mixture so be careful. Add the beans and mix well. Once the mixture is well blended, add to the meats which have been placed in a bowl and insure everything gets well mixed together.
Place a ball of the meat mix in either the tortilla press (between plastic sheets) or on the table (using plastic here too) and press to form a thin "steak". In a pan, over medium-high heat with a little oil in it (be sure it's hot so the meat won't stick), lay one of the steaks down, brown on one side then turn and once cooked, remove and reserve for plating. Do this until all the meat has been used and you are ready to serve.
NOTE: If you are unsure about the amount of spices you want in this preparation, once you have it all mixed and almost ready to cook, make a test piece and cook it. Taste to insure the finished meat will be to your taste and if not, you can add or adjust the spices at this point and you will be sure to get the desired results. This is the same technique used when making sausages, you need to make sure everything is in balance before cooking and be able to make adjustments.
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I hope you will continue to be curious about all things FOOD and decide to give some of my suggestions a try. More and more I'm finding that our culinary traditions follow the latest food trends and every time I hear: organic, slow food, farm to table, preservative free, natural, non-processed and such labels, I can apply them to our true Mexican Culinary Traditions, yet presently these terms are bandied about as the newest and most advanced schools of thought. It's time we go back to our "old ways", the modern food practices have gotten us in a lot of trouble, not just worsening our heath, but have taken us away from the natural world.
I'm sorry I'm so late to write back to you on this post. I just purchased a metate and mano online. I've read somewhere I need to buy separate metates if I want to grind chiles for mole and corn for tortillas.
ReplyDeleteDo you think it is necessary to have 2 metates if I plan to make tortillas and mole? thank you!